How To Replace the Bearings in a Pool Pump Motor - Part II

Part II. This part explains how to replace the bearings and reassemble the motor.The first part, "How To Replace the Bearings in a Pool Pump Motor - Part I" shows you a step by step approach to removing the bearings of your pool pump motor. Although this guide is specific to the Hayward Super Pump Motor, many steps are applicable to other brands of motors.

1. REVIEW TOOLS REQUIRED - This is a picture of most of the tools and parts you will need to replace the bearings of your pool pump's motor. From the left, they include: a socket wrench, a set of new motor bearings, the bearing puller, a short pipe, a set of shaft seal parts, and a hammer. You will also need a set of external ring pliers referenced in step #5. The bearing puller shown here is not needed in this part of the guide.

2. REPLACE FRONT BEARING WASHER - Place the whiter washer on the front of the shaft and push it up against the bearing retainer clip. Make sure the clip is fully in fully in the groove.

3. CHECK FRONT BEARING ID - Check the part number on the new bearing to make sure you have the right one. For this motor both bearings are 6203DW, but in some motors, the front and rear bearings are different.

4. PRESS ON FRONT BEADING - Stand the shaft and rotor up on the back end of the shaft and line up the bearing over the top of the shaft. Gently tap the middle of the bearing onto the shaft to get it started. Then take a 1/2" pipe and tap the bearing down to the retainer clip. The pipe should only contact the inner race of the bearing. If the pipe is too large in diameter, it may push on the other race of the bearing and damage the bearing.

5. REPLACE FRONT BEARING SNAP RING - Using a pair of external ring pliers, spread the snap ring open to slide it onto the shaft so that it snaps  back into the groove just in front of the bearing.

6. CHECK REAR BEARING ID - Check the part number on the new bearing to make sure you have the right one.

7. PRESS ON REAR BEARING - Press the rear bearing on the shaft using the same procedure described in step #4 above.

8. VIEW BEARING LOCKING CLIP - The front bearing is held into the bearing well of the front end bell by a locking clip. When the locking clip is rotated clockwise, as shown in picture A, the bearing will pass the clip. When it is rotated counter-clockwise, as shown in picture B, the edge of the clip is positioned inside the well edge to lock the bearing into the well. Screw the locking clip loosely and position the clip to clear the well edge, like Picture A.

9. PLACE FRONT END BELL ON SHAFT - Push the front end bell on to the shafted until the front bearing is completely in the bearing well.

10. TIGHTEN LOCKING CLIP SCREW - Tighten the screw on the locking clip. The edge of the clip will rotate over the side of the bearing, locking the bearing in.

11. VIEW LOCKING CLIP POSITION - Looking through the side of the end bell, you should see that the tab on the locking clip is up against the outside of the bearing well in a lock down position.

12. REPLACE REAR BEARING LOAD SPRING - Place the rear bearing load spring through the windings in the shell until it rests at the bottom of the rear bearing well.

13. INSERT ROTOR AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY - Insert the rotor and shaft assembly into the motor shell until the rear bearing is completely in the rear well. Line up the marks on the shell and end bells so that the motor is in the same configuration as before it was dismantled.

14. PRESS FRONT END BELL INTO SHELL - Press the front end bell into the shell so there is no gap between the shell and either end. Check line up of markings.

15. REPLACE THROUGH BOLTS - Thread the four through bolts into the four holes of the front end bell and screw them into the rear end bell. If the markings are lined up correctly, the bolts should engage the sockets in the rear end bell easily.

16. REPLACE GOVERNOR BRACKET - On the electrical side of the motor, screw the governor bracket back onto the motor shaft. Slip a flat open-ended wrench on to the flat part of the motor shaft to keep the shaft from rotating.

17. REPLACE GOVERNOR WEIGHT - Force the governor weight back into the governor bracket. You may have to spread the sides of the bracket slightly to slide the weight into its pivot holes.

18. REPLACE GOVERNOR SPRINGS - Using a pair of small needle nose pliers, reattach the springs on the posts of the bracket and weight.

19. SECURE CAPACITOR - Replace the capacitor and screw the holding bracket down with the single screw.

20. SECURE V-SWITCH - Reattach the V-switch with the single screw. If your motor is produced before November 2001, this V-switch may have to be adjusted for optimum operation.

21. REPLACE WATER SLINGER - Replace the Water Slinger on the front end of the motor shaft.

22. REPLACE MOTOR MOUNTING PLATE - Replace the motor mounting plate. There are two sets of bolts; one set for the motor mounting plate; and one set for joining the motor to the pump housing. Use the set of shorter bolts. Make sure the "TOP" label is position at the top of the motor.

23. REPLACE MOTOR SHAFT SEAL - When your motor bearings fail, you should replace the shaft seal in your motor. If you didn't replace the shaft seal in Part I, do it here.

24. REPLACE SEAL PLATE - Place the motor seal plate on to the motor mounting plate. Make sure the "TOP" label is position at the top of the motor.

25. SECURE MOTOR SHAFT - Slip a flat open-ended wrench under the capacitor at the location shown until it engages with the flat portion of the shaft. This will keep the shaft from rotating.

26. TWIST ON IMPELLER - With the wrench securing the back end of the motor shaft, screw the impeller back onto the shaft (clockwise). Hand tight is sufficient.

27. REPLACE ELECTRICAL COVER - Replace the electrical cover at the rear of the motor and secure it with two screws.

28. REPLACE DIFFUSER GASKET - Pull off the diffuser gasket and replace it with a new one from your GOKIT. Lubricate the gasket slightly.

29. SNAP ON DIFUSSER - Snap on the diffuser - no screws are required. Ensure that the part of the diffuser labeled "TOP" is aligned with the "TOP" labeled on the seal plate.

30. REPLACE HOUSING GASKET - Replace and lubricate the housing gasket located at the joining end of the pump housing.

31. INSERT MOTOR INTO PUMP HOUSING - Slip the motor assembly back into the housing.

32. REPLACE MOTOR BOLTS - Replace the four bolts evenly. If bolts were numbered 1 through 4, replace bolts in this sequence - 1, 3, 2, 4 - to ensure that the motor is set properly inside the housing. Loosely tighten bolts in this sequence, then go back and tighten them down again in this sequence. If pump has 6 bolts, replace bolts in this sequence - 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6.

33. CHECK MOTOR - This completes the re-assembly of the motor and pump. To check that everything went together correctly and that the new bearings are lined up correctly, change the pump power configuration to 115V, attach a power cord and plug the pump in an 115V bench wall socket for a few seconds to hear if the motor is running smoothly. Remember to change the pump's power back to 220V if your pump normally operates at 220V. 

If you have any other questions about pool and spa products please do let us know - we are here to help! 

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