This guide shows you the steps to identify your specific problem and get your CPSC Generator back into operation. If your Compupool CPSC Generator fails to work after initial installation or stops working after a period of time, there are a series of troubleshooting steps you can take before contacting the manufacturer. If this guide does not isolate your problem, give Compupool a call at (888) 989-7258 x225 for further instructions.
1. NO POWER - If the LED lights and display on your CPSC unit are all off, check for the following:
a - Blown fuse - See our guide on "How to replace a blown fuse on a Compupool CPSC Generator".
b - Mismatched power - Verify that the voltage coming into the unit is the same as how the unit is configured. If different, convert the wiring on the unit to match the supply voltage.
c - Not grounded - Verify that a grounding wire has been installed to the grounding lug.
d - Loose grey ribbon cable - Verify that the grey ribbon cable is plugged in tightly on both ends. See our guide on "How To Secure Ribbon Cable on a Compupool CPSC".
e - Check that wires are not near screws or crimped.
2. BLANK OR FADING DISPLAY - If the LCD Display is blank or fading, you unit probably has a faulty diode or Zener diode. The LCD Printed Circuit Board [PCB] will have to be replaced.
3. NO DISPLAY, ALL SIX LCD LIGHTS ON - This is usually an indication that you have 110V power coming into the unit and the unit is configured for 220V. Verify that your supply voltage is 110V and convert the unit's wiring from 220V to 110V.
4. NOT PRODUCING CHLORINE - The CPSC Generator produces tiny bubbles in the cell when the cell is running, If you don't see these bubbles or your unit is not maintaining adequate levels of chlorine (measured with test strips) check the following:
a -Chlorine Output Percentage - You may have your chlorine output level set too low. Move it to 100% and monitor the results for a couple of days. If your chlorine level gets too high, back the setting down.
b - Insufficient run time - Leave the unit on for a longer period of time. About 8-10 hours is typical but this will vary with your pool's water flow.
c - Water Fault light on - See Step #5
d - Only one polarity working - See Step #7
e - Plate(s) detached - See Step #12
f - Water chemistry is off - Have a local pool store check a sample of your pool water. If any of the water chemistry numbers are out of range, add the appropriate chemicals to bring them into range. Then shock the pool, set the chlorine output to 100% and run for the pool for 24 hours. Monitor the results and bump the run time down 2-4 hours and the chlorine output percentage by 10% with 2 days of cycling between increments. Continue until you reach the optimum chlorine production.
g - Cell needs cleaning - See Step #11
h - Low salt level - If the low salt light goes on, you do not have enough salt in your pool to produce chlorine and the unit will shut off. Add salt. See our guide on "How To Add Salt To Your Pool" for more instructions.
5. WATER FAULT LIGHT ON - The Water Fault Light will illuminate on several conditions. Check the following:
a - Salt just added - The Water Fault light may turn on if salt was added but not completely dissolved before the CPSC unit was turned back on.
b - Salt level too low - The Water Fault light will illuminate if the salt level is below 2500 ppm.
c - Inadequate flow - Check the filter, skimmer and pump strainer baskets to make sure nothing is restricting water flow. Also check the settings of your diverter valves to make sure they are not cutting off all or most flow.
d - Loose cell plug - Make sure the cell plug is attached tightly. See Step #15.
e - Loose wire connections - Crimp the female connections slightly to tighten the fit around the connection terminals.
6. OVER SALT LIGHT ON - Take a sample of your pool water into a local pool store and have it test for salt level. This unit works best at 3500 ppm. The light comes on at 6000 ppm. If your water is above 6000, dilute the water to attain a salt level of 4000 - 5000 ppm. The unit will operate at 6000 ppm, but it will draw more current and run hotter. Over time, running hot will reduce the life of the unit. See our guide on "How to Reduce the Salt Level In Your Pool".
7. NOT REVERSING POLARITY - Your unit has two LED lights for "Polarity 1" and "Polarity 2". They should alternate periodically to show that the power to the cell is alternating to help maximize the life of the cell. If the unit is stuck on one, try crimping the female connection on the cell plug to create a tighter fit around the connection terminal.
8. DISPLAY READS "IDLE" - This is an indication that the internal timers have been selected. "Idle" appears when the unit is in between timing sequences. If you are wiring to an external timer you may want to change the timer setting from internal to external. See our guide on "How To Select Internal/External Timers on a Compupool CSPS".
9. TEMP ALWAYS 69° AND SALT READING IS ALWAYS < 2500 - This is an indication that the electrode and LCD Printed Circuit Board need to be replaced.
10. DISPLAY READS "Not Genuine - Call Dealer" - If this message comes up, check the following:
a - Loose cell plug - Make sure that the cell plug is securely attached to the cell head. See our guide on "How To Clean a Corroded Salt Chlorine Generator Cord Head".
b - Loose connection - Try crimping the female connections slightly on the cell plug to create a tighter fit around the connection terminals.
c - Wrong Cell ID - Go through the Cell ID Instructions. See our guide on "How To Implement the Cell ID Instructions for a Compupool CPSC".
d - Bad LCD PCB - If the unit is locked up and will not power on, the LCD PCB needs to be replaced. See our guide on "How To Replace a Compupool CPSC LCD Printed Circuit Board" for more instructions.
11. BUILDUP ON CELL - If you see significant buildup on the plates of the cell you need to clean the cell and check for contributing conditions to reduce further buildup. For instructions on cleaning the cell, see our guide on "How To Clean a Compupool Salt Generator Cell". Here's a list of contributing conditions to check:
a - Not reversing polarities - Make sure the unit is reversing polarities. See "Not Reversing Polarities" in Step 7 above.
b - Loose plates - Inspect the plates in the cell to make sure that they are all secure.
c - Bad Water Chemistry - Ensure that the water chemistry is always maintained within ranges.
12. LOOSE ELECTRODE PLATE - If your water chemistry is not maintained consistently, or you do not clean the buildup off the cell plates, the plates will corrode and separate from the cell brackets. When this occurs, the cell will have to be replaced. It is very important to maintain water chemistry in your pool to extend the life of the unit's cell.
13. CELL LEAKING AT TERMINAL BOLTS - If the cell is leaking through the terminal bolts, the cell has to be replaced.
14. CELL LEAKING AT UNION - Check the union O-ring for wear and cracks. Replace if necessary. Re-lube the O-ring and make sure the collar is tight. Hand tightening should be sufficient. Do not over tighten.
15. MELTED CELL PLUG - Make sure all plates are secure and connected to the brackets at the cell head. If not, replace the cell. For instructions on correcting the melted cell plug, see our guide on "How To Clean a Corroded Salt Chlorine Generator Cord Head".
If you have any other questions about pool and spa products please do let us know - we are here to help!