How to Change an Aquabot Rapids 4WD Cable Float Assembly

This instruction provides a step-by-step procedure for replacing the Cable Float Assembly on your Aquabot Rapids 4WD Robotic Cleaner. If the cable on your Aquabot Rapid 4WD Cable Float Assembly gets cut or otherwise damaged, you will have to replace the whole cable. 

1. BUY PARTS - Buy all the parts and special tools you will need to have everything in place for this task. The parts you will need are the Cable Float Assembly, two Butt Connectors, Liquid Tape, and a Shrink Tube. Special tools to make the job easier are a heat gun, a wire stripper/crimper. The Liquid Tape, heat gun and stripper/crimper can be found in a local hardware store.

2. TURN OFF POWER - If the Aquabot Power Unit is connected to the wall, unplug it.

3. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM POWER UNIT - Unscrew the cable plug off of the Power Unit in a counterclockwise direction.

4. REMOVE FILTER ASSEMBLIES - Pull the two Filter Assemblies straight up and out of the cleaner.

5. REMOVE OUTLET TOP - The Outlet Top over the Impeller is secured with one screw. Remove the screw.

6. SLIDE TOP FROM GROMMET - Lift up the screw end of the Outlet Top and slide the other end away from the Cable Grommet.

7. LIFT OFF TOP - Lift off the Outlet Top to expose the Impeller.

8. FREE CABLE FROM TOP BRIDGE - Slide the Cable Grommet up the cable to get it out of the way and then snake the cable out of the Top Bridge through the slot in the side of the Top Bridge.

9. UNSCREW TOP BRIDGE - To get to the Motor Box Assembly, you must remove the Top Bridge which is secured to the cleaner body with four screws as shown. Remove the four screws. Note: The cleaner's handle is attached to the Top Bridge. You do not have to remove the handle.

10. LIFT OFF TOP BRIDGE - Lift off the Top Bridge to expose the Motor Assembly.

11. UNSCREW CABLE RETAINER - On the cable end of the Motor Box Assembly there is a loop in the cable that's covered with a Cable Retainer. This secured loop keeps the Cable from being pulled away from the Motor Box Assembly. Remove the two screws that secure the Cable Retainer.

12. LIFT OFF CABLE RETAINER - Slide the Cable out of the top of the Cable Retainer and lift out the Cable Retainer.

13. VIEW CABLE PLACEMENT - Look at the placement of the Cable as it is looped around the bottom portion of the Cable Retainer. You will want to create a similar loop for the replacement Cable.

14. REMOVE COGWHEEL COVER - Remove the Cogwheel Cover that is over the drive gear of the Motor. It should just lift straight up.

15. UNSCREW MOTOR CLAMP - On the other end of the Motor Box Assembly you will see the Motor Clamp that holds the Motor Box Assembly to the body of the cleaner. Remove the two screws that secure this Motor Clamp. Leave the Motor Clamp on top of the Motor.

16. LIFT OUT THE MOTOR BOX ASSEMBLY - The Motor Box Assembly should lift out of the body easily.

17. LAY MOTOR ON SIDE - Lay the Motor Box Assembly on its side to expose the Cable splice.

18. DETERMINE CUT LOCATION - The problem here is the short length of Cable between the splice and the Motor. There is no extra Cable to play with. To save as much of the Cable on the motor side, we must cut off the Cable right after the end of the metal butt connector on the motor side of the splice. This picture shows the approximate point of the cut.

19. SCORE THE SPLICE TUBE - We need to remove the old Splice Tube to see the end of the Butt Connectors. Score the Splice Tube with a matte knife. Try not to go all the way through the Tube so you don't cut the Cable wire.

20. PRY CABLE OUT OF SPLICE TUBE - Using a screwdriver, open the Splice Tube and work out the Cable and Butt Connectors. .

21. CUT OFF MOTOR SIDE OF CABLE - The Butt Connectors have a metal core that you crimp to hold the wire. Cut the two wires at the end of the metal core on the motor side of the Cable.

22. STRIP MOTOR CABLE - Score Motor Cable and strip off 1/4" of the Cable's insulation.

23. STRIP MOTOR CABLE WIRES - Using strippers, strip off 1/4" of wire insulation on both wires.

24. CLEAN WIRES - Use alcohol to clean the bare wires.

25. CUT OFF OTHER END OF SPLICE - Cut off the splice on the Cable side so you can slide off the Cable Grommet. It does not matter where you make this cut since you will be discarding this old Cable.

26. SWITCH CABLE GROMMET - Remove the Cable Grommet from the old Cable and slide it onto the end of the new Cable, skinny end first.

27. SLIDE SHRINK TUBE ONTO CABLE - Slide the Shrink Tube onto the Cable before you start the wire connections.

28. TWIST ENDS OF WIRES - Twist the ends of each of the four wires so that all the braided strands will slide into the Butt Connectors.

29. CONNECT WHITE WIRES - Insert the white wire from the Motor into the end of one Butt Connector and crimp it using a crimping tool. Insert the white wire from the new Cable into the other end of the Butt Connector and crimp it. Since this cleaner operates on 120 V, the wire colors must match - dark to dark and white to white. White will be neutral. Caution: If you haven't joined wires with Butt Connectors before, practice on a couple of pieces of the old cable. Because of the limited cable length on the motor side, you will only have one chance on this splice.

30. CONNECT DARK WIRES - Insert the black wire from the Motor into the end of a second Butt Connector and crimp. Insert the brown wire from the Cable into the other end of the Butt Connector and crimp it.

31. TEST CONNECTION - Pull on the wires on either side of the Butt Connectors to make sure the connection is solid.

32. COAT BUTT CONNECTORS - Brush a coat of Liquid Tape all over the Butt Connectors, including the ends. Wait five minutes and brush on another coat. The Liquid Tape and Shrink Tube will waterproof the splice.

33. SLIDE SHRINK TUBE OVER BUTT CONNECTORS - After the Liquid Tape has dried, slide the Shrink Tube over the two Butt Connectors. It should overlap both ends of the connection so no bare wires are exposed.

34. HEAT SHRINK TUBE - Using a heat gun, heat the Shrink Tube until it forms tightly over the connection. Again, if you haven't used a heat gun on a Shrink Tube, practice on your newly connected trial cable.

35. VIEW FINISHED SPLICE - This picture shows you the tight fit of the Shrink Tube over the Cable splice. As a further precaution, brush some Liquid Tape onto the ends of the Shrink Tube.

36. REPLACE MOTOR - Replace the Motor Box Assembly back down into the body of the cleaner. Check that the Cogwheel on the Motor engages with the body Cogwheel.

37. VIEW MOTOR CABLE PLACEMENT - This picture shows the other side of the Motor. The Cable splice has to be placed in the space under the Motor and inside of the post as shown. Make sure the Cable is not pinched under the Motor and that the Motor fits all the way down in the body.

38. SECURE MOTOR CLAMP - Secure the Motor Clamp with two screws as shown.

39. REPLACE COGWHEEL COVER - Replace the Cogwheel Cover over the Motor Cogwheel as shown.

40. LOOP CABLE UNDER CABLE RETAINER - On the other end of the Motor Box Assembly, create a loop in the new Cable as shown. Note: The Cable loop has to be shoved under the plastic unit that is in the left side of the picture.

41. REPLACE AND SECURE CABLE RETAINER - Place the Cable Retainer over the Cable loop and secure it with two screws. Make sure the loop is in the slots at the bottom of the Cable Retainer and that the Cable Retainer is down all the way before screwing it in.

42. REPLACE TOP BRIDGE - Replace the Top Bridge and secure it with four screws, two on either end. If the Top Bridge does not seat all the way down, check to make sure the white Floating Cell 5 unit is not drifting into the space where the Top Bridge should be inserted. See picture below.

43. VIEW FLOATING CELL 5 - This picture shows where the white Floating Cell 5 may be blocking the seating of the Top Bridge. Move the Floating Cell 5 unit slightly forward to clear the area.

44. THREAD CABLE THROUGH TOP BRIDGE SLOT - Snake the cable into the Top Bridge through the slot in the side of the Top Bridge.

45. SLIDE HALF OF CABLE GROMMET INTO TOP BRIDGE - Slide half of the slotted Cable Grommet into the Top Bridge.

46. REPLACE OUTLET TOP - Slide the Outlet Top into the side of the Cable Grommet as shown. Push the Outlet Cover down so it is flush with the Top Bridge.

47. SECURE OUTLET TOP - Secure the Outlet Top with a single screw.

48. REPLACE FILTERS - Insert the Filter Assemblies and push them straight down into the cleaner.

49. RECONNECT CABLE TO POWER UNIT - Push the Cable plug on to the Power Unit receptacle. Note: The slot on the end of the plug should be at 12 o'clock.

50. SECURE PLUG - When the plug is on as far as it will go, twist the black collar on the plug clockwise to secure the plug. Plug the Unit into the wall and you are ready to go.

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